Νιτρο σε σκούτερ....
Αν και είμαι κατά του να είσαι μάγκας για μισό λεπτό προτείνω να βάλουμε εδώ προσφορές από νίτρο που έχουμε βρεί στο ιντερνετ καθώς και φωτογραφίες. _burn
Αυτό είναι το κιτάκι της NOS για σκούτερ
μέχρι 100cc.... το βάζεις και γίνεσαι _cbr
Όταν είχα πάει να ρωτήσω για νίτρο να δω τι παίζει μου
είχαν πει στην αντιπροσωπεία της NOS (SRP) πως κομπλέ
θα μου πάει 800 ευρώ και θα πάρω πεί τα 10 άλογα....
Σκεφτόμουν πως δεν είναι λίγα να έχεις 30 από εκεί
που έχεις 20.... μιλάμε για 50% πάνω που δύσκολα
παίρνεις με άλλη μετατροπή. Δηλαδή ακόμα και το
κιτάκι της malossi φούλ δύσκολα θα τα φτάσεις αυτά τα άλογα....
είναι όμως ο χρόνος.... για μισό λεπτό σε ξενίζει και ένα
φιλαράκι μου είχε πεί πως το νίτρο είναι το πιο σκληρό ναρκωτικό
της βελτίωσης.... Αυτο το ρημαδιασμένο κουμπάκι
που το πατάς και πετάς σε τρελαίνει.... _blow
Όταν βρώ και άλλες φωτό θα συμπληρώσω.... :wink:
Αν και είμαι κατά του να είσαι μάγκας για μισό λεπτό προτείνω να βάλουμε εδώ προσφορές από νίτρο που έχουμε βρεί στο ιντερνετ καθώς και φωτογραφίες. _burn
Αυτό είναι το κιτάκι της NOS για σκούτερ
μέχρι 100cc.... το βάζεις και γίνεσαι _cbr
Όταν είχα πάει να ρωτήσω για νίτρο να δω τι παίζει μου
είχαν πει στην αντιπροσωπεία της NOS (SRP) πως κομπλέ
θα μου πάει 800 ευρώ και θα πάρω πεί τα 10 άλογα....
Σκεφτόμουν πως δεν είναι λίγα να έχεις 30 από εκεί
που έχεις 20.... μιλάμε για 50% πάνω που δύσκολα
παίρνεις με άλλη μετατροπή. Δηλαδή ακόμα και το
κιτάκι της malossi φούλ δύσκολα θα τα φτάσεις αυτά τα άλογα....
είναι όμως ο χρόνος.... για μισό λεπτό σε ξενίζει και ένα
φιλαράκι μου είχε πεί πως το νίτρο είναι το πιο σκληρό ναρκωτικό
της βελτίωσης.... Αυτο το ρημαδιασμένο κουμπάκι
που το πατάς και πετάς σε τρελαίνει.... _blow
Όταν βρώ και άλλες φωτό θα συμπληρώσω.... :wink:
1. A bottle or "tank" to store Nitrous Oxide
Specification: Any Vessel that can safely store Liquid
Nitrous Oxide, meaning a Bottle/Tank with a 3000psi
approx test pressure or higher used with a Bottle valve
that has a pressure relief valve rated LOWER than this
test pressure. It does not HAVE to be a conventional
bottle. (For example if you wish to "cheat" you could fill
part of a motorcycle frame, Rear swinging arm, or under
a cars bonnet maybe the "strut brace" could be used for
secret storage).
Ideals: Aluminium alloy, polished, or anodised, or painted
in two pack epoxy spray paints and mounted using
machined billet bracket, and/or Velcro straps for attractive
and professional appearance. The one
above is an old C02 fire extinguisher,
polished and fitted with a new valve.
2. A valve for this bottle
Specification: A full flow, (internal bore 2.5 to 4mm)
Bottle valve, usually as used for a C02 bottle. It must use
a Siphon tube internally that fits into the underside of the
valve to draw liquid Nitrous Oxide from the bottom of the
bottle / tank. This Valve MUST have (for safety reasons)
an Over Pressure rupture disk, as fitted to all C02 bottle
valves that you can buy. See link above.
Ideals: Small attractive, chromed or Aluminium alloy Valves
preferred for a professional appearance.
3. A special fitting that fits this bottle valve and converts
to a normal 1/8th BSP thread
Specification: A specialised fitting that follows the 2.5 to 4mm
internal bore of the siphon tube/valve and fits the unique
Carbon Di-Oxide (CO2)Valve thread that all these valves
use, and reduces the thread size down to 1/8th BSP so we
can then attach the Nitrous Line to the Valve. See link above.
Ideals: Most of the ones we find or can get easily are brass
which goes dull! But, this can be Chromed, for the sake
of appearances.
4. A braided Stainless steel Nitrous Pipe to feed the Solenoid
in the engine bay
Specification: Recommended for all bikes and race vehicles -
Normal Braided line. The same stuff countless racers, and
motorcyclists use to swap onto their vehicles to replace the
Rubber brake pipes! Its actually a PTFE (a sort of plastic) sleeve
inside a woven stainless steel sheath. It has a 3.7mm internal
bore. It can be expensive, if bought "branded (Goodridge,
or Aeroquip for Example) or cheap if unbranded and bought off
a roll by the meter. Its all the same for our purposes. You will
also need some fittings that are easy to screw onto the ends
that go from "braided" to 1/8th BSP. These fittings have a
minimum 2.30 mm internal bore.
Alternatively, and for cheapness, with some advantages for
small power boosts only, and on some road cars, 4mm Nylon,
but you will need the stuff with 1.7mm internal bore. And
suitable fittings with nuts and olives. (not the more common
2.5mm bore stuff - its not really up to the pressure!)
Ideals: Stainless Braided pipe! With stainless steel fittings
on anything with 40BHP extra added or above, and on all
bikes. It looks more professional too.
The argument for and against 4mm Nylon for feeding Nitrous
from the bottle is quite involved but... Its here should you
be interested. Facts only. No "opinions"!
5. A Nitrous Solenoid!
Specification: Needs to operate reliably, against up to 1500psi
pressure of liquid Nitrous Oxide gas at only 10 volts DC as this
is sometimes all that's available due to current drain on small
light batteries on race vehicles without charging systems. It
must also flow enough Nitrous for the intended power increase.
The solenoids I modify are actually intended for compressed
air, and after modification flow +140bhp worth of Nitrous Oxide.
I t must not "freeze" open, or leak, and must operate reliably
over thousands of operations. Needs to be corrosion and vibration
"safe"
Ideals: Should be low current drain, light small physically, easy
to mount, have 1/8th BSP threads on inlet and outlet. Stainless
steel, or anodised aluminium bodies look the nicest and do not
corrode. Magnet wiring and connections should be waterproof.
6. A Fuel Solenoid!
Specification: Needs to operate reliably, against up to 100 psi
pressure of liquid fuel @ only 10 volts DC as this is sometimes
all that's available due to current drain on small light batteries
on race vehicles without charging systems. It must also flow
enough Fuel for the intended power increase. The solenoids I
use here are actually intended for compressed air. There are
many suitable ones, but the seat sealing material must be
tested to make sure it does not harden, soften, deteriorate,
dissolve in everything from pump fuels, to methanol, and various
octane boosters. It must not "freeze" open, or leak, and must
operate reliably over thousands of operations. Needs to be
corrosion and vibration "safe"
Ideals: Should be low current drain, light small physically, easy
to mount, have 1/8th BSP threads on inlet and outlet. Stainless
steel, or anodised aluminium bodies look the nicest and do not
corrode. Magnet wiring and connections should be waterproof.
7. A Tee piece or other means of supplying fuel to the Fuel
Solenoid - depends on vehicle
Specification: Any type of tee piece can be used. Some means
of tapping into the fuel pressure side of the Carb(s), or Fuel rail.
It must be along with its fittings and hose clamps capable of the
flow and pressure required for safety reasons.
Ideals: Stainless braided on fuel injected cars/bikes is safest,
used with threaded tee or adapters. This is not always easily
done, so a normal hose clamp/rubber pipe and barbed tee
must be used. Do this VERY CAREFULLY because if it leaks
a serious fire could result.
8. A Jet Holder for the Nitrous jet. (1/8th BSP to 4mm O/D
Nylon with nut and olive)
Specification: Simple metal fitting. Male 1/8th BSP to 4mm
nylon pipe - Compression style. Best not to use "push lock"
fittings here. The 1/8th BSP side needs to be drilled and tapped
M5 and recessed to accept a control jet.
Ideals: Brass, Brass plated with nickel, Brass chromed,
or Stainless steel.
9. A Jet Holder for the Fuel Jet. (1/8th BSP to 4mm O/D Nylon
with nut and olive)
Specification: Simple metal fitting. Exactly the same as the
one above. - Male 1/8th BSP to 4mm nylon pipe - Compression
style. Best not to use "push lock" fittings here. The 1/8th BSP
side needs to be drilled and tapped M5 and recessed to accept
a control jet.
Ideals: Brass, Brass plated with nickel, Brass chromed, or
Stainless steel.
10. Some 4mm O/D Nylon pipe to connect the solenoids to
the point of injection
Specification: 4mm outside diameter. Available cheaply in big
rolls... In many colours. The normal stuff has approx 2.4 to 2.5mm
inside diameter. It is NOT rated for 1000psi pressures, so is
not really suitable for the connection between bottle and solenoids,
but it WILL actually stand it OK. It is IDEAL for connecting the
solenoids outlet to the engine, injectors, or distribution blocks.
These are at much lower pressure because the control jet is in
the solenoids outlet, and the pipes are "open" at the engine end.
And more importantly they have low thermal mass.
Ideals: Pretty colours!
11. Nitrous/Fuel Injector - or occasionally more than 1 depending
on engine configuration
Specification: It must introduce
the Nitrous into the engine, and preferably
the fuel as well. It can be two single connections
close together, or a single device that allows both
fuel and Nitrous to enter
at the same point. In ALL cases the Nitrous MUST "collect" the fuel
and atomise it finely inside the port, or air intake system.
Ideals: Must look pretty, be small, and preferably use nuts and
olives in preference to "push lock" type fittings for reliability.
12. Assorted brackets and mounting hardware, cable ties,
grommets, wiring etc
Specification: Difficult. Every vehicle and setup will be different.
Fabricate as required...
Ideals: Solid, tidy, neat, well thought out.
13. An arming switch
Specification: Any switch that looks cool, sits in your cars
dashboard, or somewhere within easy reach on a bike, that allows
you to switch "on" or arm the system ready for use. It must be
reliable, and be able to cope with 5 amps and preferably have
some kind of light or other indicator so you don't forget its on!
Ideals: Use a "standard" interior switch in your car that uses the
unused switch positions on your dashboard. This way it looks
standard, not obvious?
14. Throttle operated Micro-Switch or other alternative
Specification: Use a GOOD QUALITY 5 amp or above micro switch,
and seal against water with silicon sealant or similar. Mount so
the throttle operates it at full throttle, or on the carb / throttle body instead.
Ideals: Reliable!
Η αντλία βενζίνης πάντως για ορισμένα σκούτερ που έχουν χαμηλά το τεπόζιτο πιστεύω χρειάζεται....:wink:
και αλλιώς
